How to Replace a Transfer Case Front Output Seal

Posted on January 26, 2011 by Alvin Martin

Below guide will teach you How to Replace a Transfer Case Front Output Seal . Please follow the instructions carefully.

Things You’ll Need:

  • Combination Wrench Set
  • Seal Driver
  • Socket and Ratchet Set
  • Standard Hammer
  • Punch Set
  • 3/8 in. Drive Ratchet
  • Sealant
  • Transfer Case Seal
  • Thread locking compound
  • White out

Estimated Costs:

  • DIY Costs: Est. $24.06 parts only
  • Shop Costs: Est. $502.69 parts and labor

Image may not be specific to your car

Instructions:

  • Park the car on a flat surface and apply the parking brake.
  • Take floor jack and raise the front of the vehicle. Chock the rear wheels.
  • As a safety measure, prop the vehicle up on the jack stands so that you can work easily under the vehicle.
  • Search for the transfer case front output seal. You can take help from owner’s manual as well for locating its position.
  • Before removing the driveshaft, draw a mark on the driveshaft as well as on the yoke so that you can align the driveshaft properly during reinstallation. Take the driveshaft out from the yoke and away from the transfer case.
  • Unbolt the nut and washer holding the yoke with transfer case. Take it out from the transfer case.
  • Remove the seal from the transfer case. You may require tapping the seal with hammer.
  • Wipe off the transfer case bore with a brake spray cleaner.
  • Apply a coat of ATF on the inner side of the new seal and a coat of sealant on the outer side.
  • With the help of seal driver and hammer, fix the new seal into the transfer case bore.
  • Reinstall the yoke assembly back into the transfer case. Secure the output shaft with thread lock.
  • Now is the time to reinstall the driveshaft onto the yoke assembly. Use the marks you have drawn earlier for reference purposes to align the shaft and yoke properly.
  • Remove the vehicle from jack stands and also remove the floor jack. Make sure that the new transfer case front output seal is properly installed.
Posted in Drive Axles & Differentials | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

How to Replace a Rear Pinion Seal

Posted on January 26, 2011 by Alvin Martin

Below guide will teach you How to Replace a Rear Pinion Seal . Please follow the instructions carefully.

Things You’ll Need:

  • Screwdriver
  • Drain Pan
  • Mallet Hammer
  • Scraper
  • Socket and Ratchet Set
  • Needle Nose Pliers
  • Flat Head Screwdriver
  • Gear Oil
  • Pinion Seal
  • Brake Cleaner

Estimated Costs:

  • DIY Costs: Est. $129.79 parts only
  • Shop Costs: Est. $328.79 parts and labor

Image may not be specific to your car

Instructions:

  • Secure the vehicle on a flat surface. This is essential while working with one end of the vehicle rose.
  • Lift the rear of the vehicle up using the floor jack.
  • Prop the vehicle on jack stands to ensure your safety.
  • Carefully, examine the rear differential assembly for any signs of leak.
  • Take the gear oil fill plug away.
  • Before disconnecting the U-joint from the pinion flange, mark the driveshaft rear U-joint and flange so that you can install them properly later.
  • Similarly, you need to mark the pinion flange, pinion shaft and retaining nut to avoid any confusion later when installing them. Unbolt the nut and take the washer out from the pinion shaft.
  • Put the drain pan under the pinion flange and take the flange out from the differential.
  • Remove the pinion seal with the help of screwdriver.
  • Clean the housing properly. There should be no grease or contaminants on the housing surface.
  • Position the new seal and lubricate it with oil.
  • Reconnect the pinion flange, washer and nut properly. Torque the nut following the specifications.
  • Reattach the driveshaft to the pinion flange and secure it with bolts.
  • Take recommended gear oil for your vehicle type and add it to differential housing.
  • Replace the gear oil fill plug.
  • Remove the jack stands and ground the vehicle.
  • Take a small drive and check the differential assembly and its surrounding areas for any signs of leak.
Posted in Drive Axles & Differentials | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

How to Replace a Rear Axle Bearing

Posted on January 26, 2011 by Alvin Martin

Below guide will teach you How to Replace a Rear Axle Bearing . Please follow the instructions carefully.

Things You’ll Need:

  • Screwdriver
  • Chisel
  • Press Machine
  • Scraper
  • Socket and Ratchet Set
  • Needle Nose Pliers
  • Automatic Center Punch
  • 3/8 in. Drive Ratchet
  • Differential Cover Gasket
  • Differential
  • Gear Oil

Estimated Costs:

  • DIY Costs: Est. $1,326.01 parts only
  • Shop Costs: Est. $1,851.00 parts and labor

Image may not be specific to your car

Instructions:

  • Secure the vehicle on a flat surface. This is necessary for your safety.
  • Before lifting the rear of the vehicle, break loose the lug nuts but don’t remove them.
  • Raise the rear of the vehicle with floor jack and prop the vehicle on jack stands. Secure the front wheels with a wedge or wooden block.
  • Take the rear wheels away by removing the lug nuts.
  • Now you need to detach the brake assembly.
  • Next, loosen the bolts and detach the flange.
  • Remove the axle shaft from axle shaft housing by gliding it.
  • Next, take the rear axle bearing out of the axle housing or axle shaft.
  • After removing the bearing, examine the axle shaft or axle housing for any signs of damage.
  • Now, you have to install new flange and new axle seal on the axle shaft or axle housing.
  • Take new axle bearing and collar and install them in the axle shaft or axle housing.
  • Slide the axle shaft back into the axle shaft housing. Rotate the axle shaft until the splines come in line with the gears in the differential.
  • Secure the axle shaft with flange.
  • Reconnect the brake assembly.
  • Before fixing the wheels, make sure that the axle fluid level is up to the required mark. If fluid is lower than the required level, add more fluid.
  • Put the wheels back and secure them with lug nuts.
  • Take a small drive to ensure that the repair work is successful.
Posted in Drive Axles & Differentials | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

How to Replace a Rear Differential

Posted on January 26, 2011 by Alvin Martin

Below guide will teach you How to Replace a Rear Differential . Please follow the instructions carefully.

Things You’ll Need:

  • Screwdriver
  • Chisel
  • Press Machine
  • Scraper
  • Socket and Ratchet Set
  • Needle Nose Pliers
  • Automatic Center Punch
  • 3/8 in. Drive Ratchet
  • Differential Cover Gasket
  • Differential
  • Gear Oil

Estimated Costs:

  • DIY Costs: Est. $1,326.01 parts only
  • Shop Costs: Est. $1,851.00 parts and labor

Image may not be specific to your car

Instructions:

  • Park the car on a flat surface.
  • Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts before lifting it up with floor jack. Using the floor jack, raise the rear of the vehicle. Chock the front wheels.
  • Prop the vehicle up on the jack stands so that you can work under the vehicle safely.
  • Take the rear wheels out by removing the lug nuts completely.
  • Put a drain pan under the rear differential. Take the differential cover away and let the gear oil drains out in the drain pan completely. Once the gear oil stops to drain, examine the oil in the drain pan for any signs of metal or other contaminants.
  • Take the brake drums away.
  • Remove the flange holding the axle seal in place and take the axle bearing and collar out of the axle shaft.
  • Next, glide the axle away from the axle tube. You need to repeat the same process on the other side.
  • Carefully, take the differential carrier out. Make certain that you don’t damage the gasket sealing surface during the process. Keep both right and left bearing assemblies and shims in sets separately so that you can install them in their accurate positions later.
  • Thoroughly examine the differential carrier housing for damage and other contaminants. Also, examine the ring, pinion and carrier bearings carefully. If you find any sort of wear and tear, replace the component. Wipe off the differential carrier housing properly.
  • Take new differential carriers and install them in place. Carefully adjusts the positions of ring, pinion and carrier bearing. Secure the differential carrier with differential bearing cap properly.
  • Insert the axle back into the axle tube. Rotate the axle until the splines lined up with gears in the differential.
  • Fasten the flange to secure the axle. Do the same for the other side.
  • Take a new gasket and use it to secure the carrier cover. Apply proper torque to the carrier bolts.
  • Add fresh gear oil to axle assembly.
  • Reconnect the brake drums and fix the rear wheels with lug nuts.
  • Take a small drive and make sure that new rear differentials are properly installed.
Posted in Drive Axles & Differentials | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

How to Adjust and Lubricate a Clutch Linkage

Posted on January 26, 2011 by Alvin Martin

Below guide will teach you How to Adjust and Lubricate a Clutch Linkage . Please follow the instructions carefully.

Estimated Costs:

  • DIY Costs: Est. $0.00 parts only
  • Shop Costs: Est. $55.34 parts and labor

Image may not be specific to your car

Instructions:

  • Before commencing the repair work, take a small drive to have a better idea about the problem and you will rectify it appropriately.
  • During the drive, focus on the free play in the clutch pedal and also the smooth transition from one gear to another.
  • If nothings work well, you have to adjust the clutch linkage.
  • Take white lithium grease and apply it on the clutch linkage.
  • The free play in the clutch pedal can be adjusted by adjusting the threaded rod located at the outer end of the clutch linkage. This threaded rod often connected to a cable.
  • Take the clutch pedal return spring away and unfasten the threaded rod.
  • Adjust the threaded rod properly so that there is no free play at the transmission.
  • Before securing the rod, examine the clutch pedal and make sure that there is no more than 1-inch of free play.
  • Secure the threaded rod with locknut and put the clutch pedal return spring back to its place.

Points to Remember

  • Always use Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) to ensure your safety during the repair work such as protective eye-goggles, latex gloves, closed toe shoes etc.
Posted in Manual | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

How to Replace a Clutch

Posted on January 26, 2011 by Alvin Martin

Below guide will teach you How to Replace a Clutch . Please follow the instructions carefully.

Things You’ll Need:

  • Screwdriver
  • Combination Wrench Set
  • Socket and Ratchet Set
  • Jack Stand Set
  • Pry Bar
  • 3/8 in. Drive Torque Wrench
  • Clutch Kit

Estimated Costs:

  • DIY Costs: Est. $905.93 parts only
  • Shop Costs: Est. $1,646.07 parts and labor

Image may not be specific to your car

Instructions:

  • Before replacing clutch, make sure that the problem is genuinely with your clutch. For this take a small drive and observe the working of the clutch. RPM gauge and engine speed will help you to realize whether the clutch is working fine or not.
  • After road test, secure the vehicle on a flat surface with parking brake set on.
  • Detach the negative battery cable from the negative terminal.
  • You need to raise the front of the vehicle to access the transmission. Use floor jack to raise the vehicle. You may have to raise the rear also.
  • It is better to secure the vehicle over jack stands so that you can work safely under the vehicle.
  • In case your vehicle is rear wheel drive, take the transmission shifter knob or lever away. This will allow the transmission shifter to run through the center console and floor board.
  • Then detach the driveshaft and also the clutch linkage.
  • Next, you need to remove the speedometer cable from the transmission.
  • Remove the starter from the housing and detach all the electrical connections. Mark the wires or terminal so that reconnecting the connections won’t be a problem.
  • Support the rear of the transmission housing on the floor jack.
  • After supporting the transmission housing, remove the transmission mounts by unfastening the bolts.
  • Then, unfasten the bolts holding the transmission cross member to the frame and take it out.
  • Take the bolts out holding the transmission bell housing to the engine block. Gradually, shifts the jack down. It will glide the transmission out of the engine block.
  • Make sure that the flywheel and pressure plate has index marks for installation reference. If there are no marks, you need to mark the flywheel and pressure plate before taking them out.
  • You need to use clutch alignment tool to unfasten the pressure plate bolts holding it to flywheel.
  • Once the pressure plate is removed, examine the clutch lining for any signs of damage.
  • Take a clutch alignment tool and align the new clutch disc to the pressure plate and flywheel. You have to torque the bolts properly to ensure that pressure plate is evenly attached to the flywheel. Once done, take the clutch alignment tool out.
  • Now, prop the transmission on jack and slowly lift the transmission to the height where bolt holes and dowels come in line. Secure the transmission to engine block properly.
  • Reconnect all the components which you have removed earlier such as electrical connectors, cables, hydraulic lines etc.
  • Now first reconnect the transmission mount to the transmission, then reattach the cross member to the frame rails.
  • Next secure the transmission bell housing to the engine block carefully. Torque the mounting bolts properly.
  • Add transmission fluid to the transmission oil pan and take a small drive to ensure that the new clutch is operating fine.

Points to Remember

  • Always use Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) such as goggles, latex gloves, closed toe shoes etc.
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How to Replace a Manual Transmission

Posted on January 26, 2011 by Alvin Martin

Below guide will teach you How to Replace a Manual Transmission . Please follow the instructions carefully.

Things You’ll Need:

  • Floor Jack
  • Screwdriver
  • Socket and Ratchet Set
  • Transmission Jack
  • Jack Stand Set
  • 3/8 in. Drive Ratchet
  • 1/2 in. Drive Ratchet
  • Transmission Assembly

Estimated Costs:

  • DIY Costs: Est. $2,844.37 parts only
  • Shop Costs: Est. $3,696.28 parts and labor

Image may not be specific to your car

Instructions:

  • Start by removing the shift knob and console trim plate of your vehicle.
  • Park the car on flat surface and raise the front of the vehicle with floor jack. Chock the rear wheels.
  • In order ensure your safety, rest the vehicle on jack stands. Floor jack alone is in no way reliable.
  • Now you need to detach the speedometer cable. It is better to mark the electrical connectors for reference purposes. Disconnect the connectors from transmission unit.
  • Next, take the driveshaft out.
  • Take the floor jack and rest the transmission over it. Then, take the transmission mounts and cross member away.
  • Next, you need to detach the shift levers from the side of the transmission.
  • Remove the back drive rod from the bell crank.
  • Unfasten the bolts holding the shift control assembly. Gradually moves the assembly down till the shift level disconnected from the rubber shift boot. Take the assembly out.
  • Unfasten the bolts holding the transmission to bell and take it out.
  • Raise the transmission and put the main shaft into the bell housing.
  • Fasten the bolts holding the transmission to clutch housing. Torque them properly.
  • Reinstall the shift lever and side cover as well.
  • Reconnect the back drive rod to the bell crank.
  • Reinstall the transmission mounts and cross member.
  • Also reconnect the driveshaft.
  • Reattach the speedometer cable and also the electrical connectors.
  • Add fresh transmission fluid to transmission oil pan.
  • Put the shift knob and console trim back to their respective positions.
Posted in Manual | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

How to Check Manual Transmission oil Level

Posted on January 26, 2011 by Alvin Martin

Below guide will teach you How to Check Manual Transmission oil Level . Please follow the instructions carefully.

Things You’ll Need:

  • Floor Jack
  • Combination Wrench Set
  • Drain Pan
  • Socket and Ratchet Set
  • Jack Stand

Estimated Costs:

  • DIY Costs: Est. $0.00 parts only
  • Shop Costs: Est. $63.24 parts and labor

Image may not be specific to your car

Instructions:

  • First secure the vehicle on a flat surface and apply parking brake.
  • Oil checking requires a level surface so that you can get an accurate reading.
  • If you are required to lift the vehicle due to low ground clearance, make certain that you secure the vehicle on all four corners on jack stands.
  • Search for the transmission fill plug and take it away. In many vehicles, fill plug is positioned on the upper side. Examine the level of the oil.
  • In case oil is below recommended level, add more oil to bring to the full mark. Always use the manufacturer specified transmission oil for your vehicle.
  • Recap the fill plug and secure it properly. Wait for some time to see if there is any leak.

Points to Remember

  • Always use Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) while working with your vehicle to ensure your safety such as protective goggles, closed toe shoes, or latex gloves etc.
Posted in Manual | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

How to Replace a Park Light Assembly

Posted on January 25, 2011 by Alvin Martin

Below guide will teach you How to How to Replace a Park Light Assembly. Please follow the instructions carefully.

Things You’ll Need:

  • Parking Light
  • Screwdriver
  • 1/4 in. Drive Ratchet

Estimated Costs:

  • DIY Costs: Est. $66.91 parts only
  • Shop Costs: Est. $152.39 parts and labor

Image may not be specific to your car

Instructions:

  • Examine carefully all the parking light assemblies so that you can replace the damaged assembly.
  • Lift the engine hood and secure it with hood prop (if needed).
  • Locate the back of the parking light assembly and remove any wiring connections from it.
  • Take the socket and bulb out of the damaged assembly.
  • Take the damaged assembly out by unfastening the bolts.
  • Take a new parking light assembly and secure it with bolts.
  • Position the socket and bulb in the new assembly and reapply the wiring connection.
  • Turn on the parking lights and make certain that the assembly is installed properly.
Posted in Lighting & Electrical | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

How to Replace an Automatic Transmission

Posted on January 25, 2011 by Alvin Martin

Below guide will teach you How to Replace an Automatic Transmission . Please follow the instructions carefully.

Things You’ll Need:

  • Floor Jack
  • 3/8 in. Drive Ratchet
  • Jack Stand Set
  • Transmission Jack
  • Socket and Ratchet Set
  • Socket Extension Set
  • Drain Pan
  • Combination Wrench Set
  • Screwdriver
  • Pliers
  • 1/2 in. Drive Ratchet
  • Automatic Transmission Fluid
  • Transmission Assembly

Estimated Costs:

  • DIY Costs: Est. $2,903.86 parts only
  • Shop Costs: Est. $3,940.39 parts and labor

Instructions:

  • Take a small drive and observe the functioning of the automatic transmission.
  • Make sure that the transmission shifts through all the gears. This will give you better idea about your automatic transmission functionality and defects.
  • Park the vehicle on a level surface and set the parking brake.
  • Detach the negative battery cable from the terminal.
  • Detach the transmission throttle connection from the carburetor or throttle body.
  • Take the oil filler tube away.
  • Lift the front of the vehicle with floor jack. Chock the rear wheels.
  • Remove all the electrical connectors from the starter, backup switches, sensors and solenoid.
  • Also detach the starter wiring from the starter.
  • Take the starter away by unfastening the bolts.
  • Place a drain pan under the transmission pan and drain out all the transmission fluid by unfastening the transmission pan bolts.
  • You may have to disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold and other cross tubes to gain access to the transmission.
  • Detach shift linkage and the speedometer cable from the transmission.
  • If your vehicle is a rear wheel drive, it is better to mark the rear driveshaft flange and the pinion flange. This mark will help you to line up the flange later in the installation process.
  • Open the U-bolts and take the driveshaft out.
  • You may need to remove the transmission oil cooler lines from the transmission.
  • Support the transmission with a transmission jack and unfasten the transmission mount attached to the transmission crossmember.
  • To relieve the pressure on the mount, escalate the transmission using the transmission jack.
  • Take the crossmember away by unscrewing the bolts.
  • Gradually shift the transmission down till the point where you can support the transmission to the transmission jack with chain.
  • Take the engine flex plate cover off. This will help you access the transmission and engine bolts easily.
  • To reach torque converter bolts, take away shields or any other covers.
  • Unbolt the torque converter by turning the crankshaft.
  • Transmission is often secured to engine frame with bolts. Unbolt the transmission.
  • In order to take the transmission away from the engine, drag the transmission slightly backwards.
  • After removing the transmission, make use of bungee cord or wire to protect the torque converter to the transmission bell housing.
  • Drag the transmission backwards and move it low once at the same time.
  • Take the torque converter out as you remove the transmission.
  • Place drain pan underneath the transmission and torque converter.
  • Drag the torque converter out of the transmission housing. Let the fluid drain out in the drain pan.
  • Add new transmission fluid to the torque converter.
  • Drive the torque converter to the inner of the transmission. You may need to spin the torque converter while spinning it inward.
  • To make certain that the torque converter is lined up correctly, measure the distance on both the sides of the torque converter from the transmission. The distance should be the same on both sides.
  • Lift the transmission slightly and adjust it properly so that it becomes in line with the engine.
  • Using guide pins, align the transmission with engine while driving the transmission into the engine.
  • Secure the torque converter with bolts.
  • Secure the transmission to the engine by means of bolts. Torque the bolts properly.
  • Raise the transmission and reinstall the crossmember. Secure the crossmember.
  • Now you have to put back the transmission mount.
  • Shift the transmission down gradually till the transmission rests on the mount. Secure the mounts with bolts.
  • Now, reinstall the oil filler tube.
  • Take a new exhaust gasket and reattach the exhaust tube back to the exhaust manifold using the new gasket.
  • If there are transmission cooler lines, reconnect them to the transmission.
  • Put the engine cover back. Also reattach the throttle linkage as well as shift linkage.
  • Reconnect all the electrical connectors back to the transmission.
  • Reattach the speedometer cable as well as driveshaft.
  • Take a manufacturer recommended transmission fluid and add this fluid to the transmission oil pan.
  • Shift the vehicle down and turn the engine on. Shift the transmission to all the gears while still in halt position.
  • Examine the fluid level again with the help of dipstick and add more fluid if required.
  • Examine the transmission and its surrounding area for any signs of leak.
  • Take a vehicle on a test drive to ensure that the replaced automatic transmission system is operating fine.
Posted in Automatic | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment