How to Replace a Brake Master Cylinder

Posted on February 10, 2011 by Alvin Martin

Below guide will teach you How to Replace a Brake Master Cylinder . Please follow the instructions carefully.

Things You’ll Need:

  • Combination Wrench Set
  • Socket and Ratchet Set
  • 3/8 in. Drive Ratchet
  • Brake Fluid
  • Brake Master Cylinder

Estimated Costs:

  • DIY Costs: Est. $271.56 parts only
  • Shop Costs: Est. $472.25 parts and labor

Image may not be specific to your car.

Instructions:

  • Park the vehicle on a level surface and prop the hood up.
  • Find the position of the master cylinder and examine the level of the brake fluid.
  • Evacuate the brake fluid from the master cylinder with the help of turkey baster.
  • Making use of flare nut wrench, disconnect the brake lines from the brake master cylinder. Also detach electrical connectors from the master cylinder.
  • Remove the brake master cylinder from the brake booster by unbolting the bolts and replace it with new brake master cylinder.
  • Using recommended brake fluid for your vehicle, fill up both the chambers of brake master cylinder reservoir.
  • Thread the adapters into the brake master cylinder with the help of bench bleeding kit.
  • Guide the plastic tubing back into the master cylinder.
  • Pump the piston with full strokes. You may require Phillips Screwdriver to do this. You need to pump the brake master till all the air is evacuated.
  • Take the bench bleeding kit out and reconnect the brake lines. Add more brake fluid to the master cylinder.
  • Next, close the hood and raise vehicle with the help of floor jack.
  • To ensure your safety, prop the vehicle on the jack stands.
  • Unfasten the lug nuts holding the wheels and take the wheels away from the vehicle.
  • Support the brake pedal with 1 x 4 size wooden block so that it doesn’t move far.
  • On the passenger side, look for the brake bleeding valve somewhere around the brake caliper or wheel cylinder.
  • Fix a piece of clear plastic tubing to the brake bleeder screw and insert the other end of the tubing into the container filled with brake fluid.
  • Instruct your assistant to press down and hold the brake pedal.
  • Loosen the bleeder valve and let the fluid and air evacuate from the reservoir.
  • Retighten the brake bleeding valve screw.
  • Keep repeating the process till there are no air bubbles appear in the brake fluid.
  • Add more brake fluid to the master cylinder and make sure it is filled up to the required level.
  • You need to do the same, i.e. from step 16 to 21 on other wheels in the order of left rear wheel, right front wheel and left front wheel.
  • Once you have replaced the master cylinder for all the wheels, put the wheels back and secure them with lug nuts.
  • Take a small drive to make sure that everything is working well.
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How to Replace a Brake Caliper

Posted on February 10, 2011 by Alvin Martin

Below guide will teach you How to Replace a Brake Caliper . Please follow the instructions carefully.

Things You’ll Need:

  • Combination Wrench Set
  • C-Clamp
  • Socket and Ratchet Set
  • Jack Stand Set
  • Flat Head Screwdriver
  • 1/2 in. Drive Torque Wrench
  • Brake Caliper
  • Brake Fluid

Estimated Costs:

  • DIY Costs: Est. $243.66 parts only
  • Shop Costs: Est. $494.67 parts and labor

Image may not be specific to your car.

Instructions:

  • Secure the vehicle on a flat surface. Apply parking brake.
  • Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels before lifting the front side with floor jack.
  • Put logs behind rear wheels and raise the front of the vehicle with floor jack.
  • Prop the vehicle on jack stands to ensure your safety during the repair work.
  • Take the loosen lug nut away and take the fronts wheels off the vehicle.
  • Examine the brake caliper carefully to spot any signs of binding. Observe if there is rust or uneven brake pad damage.
  • Take the brake caliper out by removing the sliding bolts. You may need to disconnect the disc pads as well if they are connected to the caliper.
  • Secure the caliper with a kind of support. Never let it hang by the brake hose.
  • Wipe off the sliding bolts properly. Apply grease or oil to sliding bolts.
  • Connect the disc pad with new brake caliper and reassemble the new caliper over the brake disc (rotor).
  • Secure the caliper on the bracket with sliding bolts.
  • Detach the brake line from old caliper and reattach it to the new caliper. It is better to use new copper washers. Fasten the banjo bolt.
  • Repeat the same process on the other side and don’t forget to bleed the brakes.
  • Fix the wheels and secure them properly with lug nuts.
  • Take the jack stands away and slide down the floor jack.
  • Take a small drive and make certain that the brake pedal is not loose and new brake caliper are properly installed.

Tips & Warning

  • Always use safety goggles, latex gloves and closed toe shoes. These will prevent you from sustaining any severe injuries during the repair work.

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How to Replace a Wheel Cylinder

Posted on February 10, 2011 by Alvin Martin

Below guide will teach you How to Replace a Wheel Cylinder . Please follow the instructions carefully.

Things You’ll Need:

  • Screwdriver
  • Combination Wrench Set
  • Brake Bleeder Kit
  • Mallet Hammer
  • Socket and Ratchet Set
  • Jack Stand Set
  • 3/8 in. Drive Ratchet
  • Wheel Cylinder

Estimated Costs:

  • DIY Costs: Est. $160.41 parts only
  • Shop Costs: Est. $317.38 parts and labor

Image may not be specific to your car.

Instructions:

  • Park the vehicle on a flat surface.
  • Loosen the lug nuts before lifting the vehicle up on jack.
  • Using the floor jack, raise the vehicle.
  • Prop the vehicle up on jack stands to ensure your safety.
  • Take all the lug nuts away and detach the wheels from the vehicle.
  • Take the brake drum out and also star wheel adjuster if required.
  • Take a spray bottle filled with a mixture of water and detergent, wipe off any debris of dirt from the surface of the brake assembly. Never use compressed air to clean the brake assembly. Examine properly the brake shoes for any damage.
  • Take the primary and secondary brake shoe return springs from the anchor pin and brake shoes away.
  • Also disconnect the adjuster cable and spring assembly. Take the star adjusting screw away and thread the adjuster in entirely.
  • Disconnect the front brake shoe retainer and also take away the front brake shoe and parking brake link.
  • Next, take the parking brake lever out from the rear brake shoe. Take the rear brake retainer and rear brake shoe away as well.
  • Now, first remove the brake line from the wheel cylinder by unfastening the bolts and then remove the wheel cylinder from the backing plate by unfastening the retaining bolts.
  • Secure the new wheel cylinder to the backing plate with bolts and also reassemble the brake line to the new wheel cylinder.
  • Take lithium grease and apply it on the backing plate contact points.
  • Reassemble the brake shoes by reversing the entire process. Make certain that brake shoes won’t receive any debris or dirt during installation.
  • Repeat the steps from 6 to 15 for the other side.
  • On the passenger side rear brake, locate the brake bleeder valve.
  • Take a piece of clear plastic tubing and fix it on the brake bleeder screw and insert the other end of the tubing into the container filled with brake fluid.
  • Instruct your assistant to depress and hold the brake pedal.
  • Loosen the bleeder screw to let the brake oil evacuate from it.
  • Fasten the screw and repeat the steps from 17-21 till no air bubbles pop out of the tubing.
  • Do the same on the right side of the rear.
  • Fix the wheels back to the vehicles and test the working of the new wheel cylinders by taking a small drive.
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How to Replace a Proportioning Valve

Posted on February 4, 2011 by admin

Below guide will teach you How to Replace a Proportioning Valve . Please follow the instructions carefully.

Things You’ll Need:

  • Brake Fluid
  • Proportion Valve Switch
  • Shop Towel
  • Brake Bleeder Kit
  • Drain Pan
  • Socket and Ratchet Set
  • Flare Nut Wrench

Estimated Costs:

  • DIY Costs: Est. $41.95 parts only
  • Shop Costs: Est. $201.31 parts and labor

Image may not be specific to your car

Steps:

  • Park the vehicle on a flat surface and set it on parking brake.
  • Take a floor jack and life up the front part of the vehicle with it. Chock the rear wheels as well.
  • Take jack stands and prop the vehicle up on them to ensure your safety while working underneath the vehicle.
  • Find the brake proportioning valve and clean it along with surrounding areas with the help of brake cleaner.
  • Instruct your assistant to depress and set free the brake pedal rapidly and in a mean while you examine the brake proportioning valve for any signs of leak.
  • Remove any wiring harness for the brake fluid warning light switch.
  • Also, remove hard brake lines from the valve.
  • Take the proportioning valve out by unfastening the bolts.
  • Take new proportioning valve and fix it on its place.
  • Now find the brake bleeder valve. You can find it on the passenger’s rear side.
  • Take a piece of clear plastic tube and fix it over the brake bleeder screw. Insert the other end of the tube into a container filled with brake fluid.
  • Instruct your assistant to depress and hold the brake pedal in a view to build pressure in the braking system.
  • Unfasten the bleeder screw and let the brake fluid to drop out through the bleeder screw opening.
  • Fasten the bleeder screw again.
  • Repeat this process till the point where you see no more air bubbles coming out.
  • You need to repeat the same process for other side as well.
  • Remove the jack stand and floor jack. Take a small drive to ensure that the repair work is doing well.
  • After a small drive, check the proportioning valve and its surrounding areas for any leakage.
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How to Check Differential Oil Leaks and Replace Oil

Posted on February 3, 2011 by admin

Below guide will teach you How to Check Differential Oil Leaks and Replace Oil . Please follow the instructions carefully.

Things You’ll Need:

  • Differential Gasket
  • Gear Oil
  • Screwdriver
  • Drain Pan
  • Mallet Hammer
  • Scraper
  • Socket and Ratchet Set

Estimated Costs:

  • DIY Costs: Est. $118.01 parts only
  • Shop Costs: Est. $275.36 parts and labor

Image may not be specific to your car

Steps:

  • Park the vehicle on a flat surface to ensure that vehicle won’t roll when you lift it up with a jack.
  • Raise the rear part of the vehicle with floor jack. Chock the front wheels.
  • In order to ensure your safety, prop the vehicle up on jack stands.
  • Examine rear differential housing and surrounding area fro any signs of leakage.
  • Take the gear oil fill plug off.
  • Wipe off any debris or dirt from underneath the differential cover.
  • Put a drain pan under the rear differential and take away the bolts holding the differential cover. Leave 2 or 3 bolts intact on the top. You may need to pry off the cover from the differential housing to let the oil drain out.
  • Once the oil is drained out, take off the remaining 2 or 3 bolts from the top and remove the entire cover.
  • Wipe off any debris or dirt or greasy substance from the mounting surface of the differential and housing.
  • Take a sealant and apply it on the differential cover mounting surface and also to the housing mounting surface.
  • Position the new gasket on the cover and reassemble it on the differential housing. Properly torque the bolts.
  • Now take a recommended type of gear oil for your vehicle and add it to the differential until it reaches to the bottom of the fill plug.
  • Recap the gear oil fill plug.
  • Remove the jack stands and floor jack and take a small drive and make sure that everything is working fine.

Tips & Warning

  • Don’t forget to wear Personal Protective Equipment such as safety goggles, latex gloves and closed toe shoes to avoid any injuries.
Posted in Drive Axles & Differentials | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

How to Replace a Drive Shaft

Posted on February 3, 2011 by admin

Below guide will teach you How to Replace a Drive Shaft . Please follow the instructions carefully.

Things You’ll Need:

  • Driveshaft
  • Socket and Ratchet Set
  • Pry Bar
  • 3/8 in. Drive Ratchet

Estimated Costs:

  • DIY Costs: Est. $380.44 parts only
  • Shop Costs: Est. $512.16 parts and labor

Image may not be specific to your car

Steps

  • Park the vehicle on a flat surface and make certain the vehicle won’t roll away once lifted with jack.
  • Raise the vehicle with floor jack. It is better to secure the vehicle on jack stands to ensure your safety while working under the vehicle.
  • Mark reference line from the rear end of the driveshaft to the companion flange. This will help you reinstalling them properly later.
  • Take the U-bolts or U-clamps away and remove the rear universal joints from the pinion flange. Use tape on the loose bearing caps to avoid them from falling.
  • Slide the driveshaft from the transmission out.
  • Have a good look of the seal inside the transmission case extension. If it is damaged, replace it with new one.
  • Fix the new driveshaft into the transmission and reinstall the front yoke in such away that the splines come in line with transmission shaft.
  • Taking help from the reference mark you draw earlier, align the driveshaft properly with companion flange. Make it safe with U-bolts or U-clamps.
Posted in Drive Axles & Differentials | Tagged , | 2 Comments

How to Replace a Cabin Air Filter

Posted on January 29, 2011 by Alvin Martin

Below guide will teach you How to Replace a Cabin Air Filter . Please follow the instructions carefully.

Things You’ll Need:

  • Cabin Air Filter
  • Screwdriver
  • Socket and Ratchet Set

Estimated Costs:

  • DIY Costs: Est. $26.35 parts only
  • Shop Costs: Est. $100.43 parts and labor

Image may not be specific to your car

Instructions:

  • First of all you have to locate your cabin air filter. You may have to refer to your owner’s manual for this. In some vehicles, the cabin air filter is positioned in the engine compartment; while in others, you can find it in the interior under the dashboard. Few vehicles come with more than one cabin air filters as well. While replacing the cabin air filter make sure that you have checked both the filters.
  • Remove the box covering the cabin air filter. Examine the filter for dust, dirt or any other contaminants which are blocking the air flow.
  • Before installing the new filter, wipe the filter box and surrounding area to remove the dust.
  • Fix the new filter in its respective place and replace the covering.
  • Turn on the A/C and check the working of new cabin air filter.
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How to Replace a CV Boot

Posted on January 26, 2011 by Alvin Martin

Below guide will teach you How to Replace a CV Boot . Please follow the instructions carefully.

Things You’ll Need:

  • Flashlight
  • Floor Jack
  • Combination Wrench Set
  • Mallet Hammer
  • Socket and Ratchet Set
  • Flat Head Screwdriver
  • 3/8 in. Drive Ratchet
  • CV Boot
  • CV Joint Grease

Estimated Costs:

  • DIY Costs: Est. $24.27 parts only
  • Shop Costs: Est. $210.46 parts and labor

Image may not be specific to your car

Instructions:

  • Park the car on a flat surface and set on the parking brake.
  • Take a floor jack and raise the front of the vehicle. Don’t forget to chock the rear wheels.
  • Floor jack is not enough to work under the vehicle, so use jack stands to support the vehicle.
  • Take the front wheels away from the vehicle by unbolting the lug nuts.
  • After removing the wheels, examine the CV boot for any signs of damage.
  • It is a good idea to mark the axle position over the assembly as this will help you while reassembling the components.
  • Take the CV joint assembly out.
  • You need to use a bench vise to detach the CV joint from the shaft. Also take the CV boot clamps away.
  • Detach the CV boot from the outer CV joint.
  • Now disconnect the CV joint from the axle shaft. You may have to tap the CV joint with rubber mallet to take it out.
  • Take the old CV boot out of the axle shaft.
  • Wipe any sort of dust, dirt or grease from the CV axle shaft. Don’t forget to wipe the sealing surface on the CV joint.
  • Fill grease in the CV joint and glide it back into the shaft.
  • Take a new CV boot and glide it on to the shaft. Before securing it with inner clamp, you need to have a new retaining clip.
  • Now glide the CV joint on the axle shaft completely.
  • Apply grease on the CV boot and insert it into the CV joint housing. Using new clamps fasten the CV boot in the housing.
  • Now reattach the CV joint and axle back to the vehicle.
  • Fix the wheels back to the hub assembly and secure them with lug nuts.
  • Take the jack stands and floor jack away and take a vehicle on a small drive to examine that the new CV boot is properly installed.
Posted in Drive Axles & Differentials | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

How to Replace an Axle Assembly

Posted on January 26, 2011 by Alvin Martin

Below guide will teach you How to Replace an Axle Assembly . Please follow the instructions carefully.

Things You’ll Need:

  • Combination Wrench Set
  • Ball Joint Separator
  • Mallet Hammer
  • Socket and Ratchet Set
  • Jack Stand Set
  • Flat Head Screwdriver
  • 1/2 in. Drive Torque Wrench
  • Axle Assembly

Estimated Costs:

  • DIY Costs: Est. $75.33 parts only
  • Shop Costs: Est. $269.27 parts and labor

Image may not be specific to your car

Instructions:

  • Secure the vehicle on a flat surface. Make sure that you apply the parking brake.
  • Break loose the front wheel lug nuts. Make sure you don’t remove them completely.
  • Take a floor jack and raise the front of the vehicle. Insert wedge or wooden block behind the rear wheels.
  • As a safety measure, prop the vehicle on the jack stands.
  • Take the lug nuts away and take the front wheels out of the vehicle.
  • Carefully, examine the CV boots (constant velocity boots) and joints for any visible damage.
  • Unbolt the nut holding the axle to the damaged axle assembly.
  • Take a floor jack and prop the lower control arm over it. Remove the lower ball joint and tie rid end from the steering knuckle.
  • You need to press the axle in and then raise the steering knuckle and slide it out.
  • Using a rubber mallet, remove the axle assembly from the transaxle or differential.
  • Take a new axle assembly and put it into a transaxle or differential.
  • Fix the outer joint of the assembly with the steering knuckle.
  • Rejoin the lower ball joint and tie rod end with the steering knuckle.
  • Secure the axle to the axle assembly by tightening axle nut.
  • Put the front wheels back to the vehicle and secure them with lug nuts.
  • In the end make sure that the new axle assembly is properly installed by taking a small drive.
Posted in Drive Axles & Differentials | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

How to Replace a U-Joint

Posted on January 26, 2011 by Alvin Martin

Below guide will teach you How to Replace a U-Joint . Please follow the instructions carefully.

Things You’ll Need:

  • Combination Wrench Set
  • Bench Vise
  • Press Machine
  • Socket and Ratchet Set
  • Standard Hammer
  • 3/8 in. Drive Ratchet
  • U Joint
  • White out

Estimated Costs:

  • DIY Costs: Est. $27.34 parts only
  • Shop Costs: Est. $253.60 parts and labor

Image may not be specific to your car

Instructions:

  • Park the vehicle on a flat surface.
  • With the help of floor jack, lift the vehicle up.
  • In order to ensure your safety while working under the vehicle, prop up the vehicle on the jack stands.
  • Draw a mark on the driveshaft and companion flange to ensure that you will be able to reassemble them with a proper driveshaft balance.
  • Detach the U-bolts or U-clamps holding the rear U-joint against the pinion flange. Secure the loosing bearing cups by wrapping tape around them.
  • Slide the driveshaft in the backward direction to take it out of the transmission.
  • Carefully examine the yoke seal. If it is damaged, replace it.
  • Now you have to hold the driveshaft in a strong bench vise in order to take the snag rings out. In the front, snag rings hold the bearings in the slip yoke while hold the bearings in the driveshaft both in front and rear.
  • Make use of assorted sockets and push the bearing cups out of the yoke. Similarly, press out the driveshaft with the help of large bench vise. When you close the vice, the smaller socket will press the bearing from one side and the larger socket will help the bearing to move out on the other side.
  • Using a pair of pliers, pull the bearing by moving the U-joint in the opposite direction. By moving the U-joint in opposite direction, you can access the bearings easily. Repeat the process to get rid of all the bearings.
  • Once the bearings are removed, take the U-joint out of the driveshaft and yoke by pulling it.
  • Wipe off all the dirt and other contaminants from the yoke and driveshaft.
  • Now you need to start with reinstalling the bearing caps. First put in one bearing cap into the side of yoke.
  • Next, you need to insert the U-joint into the bearing cap. Put in another cap likewise. Straighten the U-joint and push the bearings caps so that they take their position. But while applying pressure, make sure that the seals and needle bearings don’t get damage.
  • The next step is to reinstall the snag rings. Using hammer to tap the driveshaft and yoke gently, you will be able to position the snag rings in the groove properly.
  • Align the driveshaft and front yoke in a way the splines of both come in line with transmission shaft’s splines.
  • Now you have to make sure that driveshaft and flange are in line, using the reference marks you draw earlier. Once they both are in line, tighten them with U-bolts or U-clamps.
  • Apply grease to the joint. Don’t apply to much grease to the joint as it may harm the grease seals.
  • Your repair work has completed. Now take a small drive to make sure that everything is functioning properly.
Posted in Drive Axles & Differentials | Tagged , , | Leave a comment