How to Replace a Catalytic Converter

Posted on March 18, 2011 by Alvin Martin

Below guide will teach you How to Replace a Catalytic Converter . Please follow the instructions carefully.

Things You’ll Need:

  • Combination Wrench Set
  • Mallet Hammer
  • Socket Extension Set
  • Socket and Ratchet Set
  • Jack Stand Set
  • Catalytic Converter

Estimated Costs:

  • DIY Costs: Est. $88.11 parts only
  • Shop Costs: Est. $302.41 parts and labor

Instructions:

  • Life the vehicle with the help of floor jack and secure the vehicle on jack stands.
  • Look for the catalytic converter.
  • Take a rubber mallet and rap lightly on the catalytic converter. Observe the sound. If the noise heard is same, a catalytic converter needs to be replaced.
  • Take the catalytic converter out by unbolting holding clamps.
  • Wipe off any debris and dust from the mounting surfaces.
  • Take the burrs off from the metal pipes so that the new converter glides on them easily.
  • Put the burrs back and secure the new converter to the metal pipes with clamps.

Tips & Warning

  • Always use Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) to prevent injuries while working on your vehicle such as safety goggles, latex gloves, and closed toe shoes.
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How to Replace a Muffler

Posted on March 18, 2011 by Alvin Martin

Below guide will teach you How to Replace a Muffler . Please follow the instructions carefully.

Things You’ll Need:

  • Floor Jack
  • Mallet Hammer
  • Socket and Ratchet Set
  • Scraper Set
  • Jack Stand Set
  • 3/8 in. Drive Ratchet
  • Muffler
  • Penetrating Oil

Estimated Costs:

  • DIY Costs: Est. $122.75 parts only
  • Shop Costs: Est. $247.62 parts and labor

Instructions:

  • Park the vehicle on a flat surface and raise the rear of the vehicle with floor jack as you will find muffler in the rear of your vehicle.
  • Support the vehicle on the jack stands to make sure that it will not fall over you while working underneath the vehicle.
  • Use penetrating lubricant spray on the exhaust clamp bolts. This will help you remove the bolts easily. Unfasten the clamp bolts holding the muffler to the exhaust.
  • Take the old muffler out.
  • Position the new muffler in place and secure it with clamp bolts to the exhaust.
  • Take a small test drive to ensure that new muffler is properly installed.

Tips & Warning

  • Always use Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) to prevent injuries while working on your vehicle such as safety goggles, latex gloves, and closed toe shoes.
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How to Replace a Tail Pipe

Posted on March 18, 2011 by Alvin Martin

Below guide will teach you How to Replace a Tail Pipe . Please follow the instructions carefully.

Estimated Costs:

  • DIY Costs: Est. $0.00 parts only
  • Shop Costs: Est. $102.77 parts and labor

Instructions:

  • Secure the vehicle on a flat surface and secure the front wheels with log or wedge.
  • Raise the rear of the vehicle with the help of floor jack.
  • Support the vehicle on the jack stands so that you can work safely under the vehicle.
  • Look for the exhaust tail pipe on the rear.
  • Using penetrating lubricant spray on the clamp nuts, unfasten the clamp nuts holding the tail pipe to the exhaust.
  • Remove hangers connecting the tail pipe to the frame. Take the tail pipe away.
  • Take a new tail pipe and position it in its place and secure it with the clamp nuts.
  • Reattach the hanger.

Tips & Warning

  • Always use Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) to prevent injuries while working on your vehicle such as safety goggles, latex gloves, and closed toe shoes.
Posted in Intake & Exhaust | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

How to Replace an Alternator

Posted on February 22, 2011 by Alvin Martin

Below guide will teach you How to Replace an Alternator . Please follow the instructions carefully.

Things You’ll Need:

  • Screwdriver
  • Combination Wrench Set
  • Socket and Ratchet Set
  • Serpentine Belt Tool
  • Alternator

Estimated Costs:

  • DIY Costs: Est. $35.87 parts only
  • Shop Costs: Est. $170.33 parts and labor

Instructions:

  • Prop the engine hood up. Look for the alternator. You may have to consult the owner’s manual to locate the position of the alternator.
  • Test the battery voltage with the help of DMM or digital multimeter. If the battery is bad or dead it will show you nothing more than 9 volts which is not enough to initiate the ignition process for most of the vehicles.
  • In order to determine whether the alternator is defective or not, you need to have a battery fully charged and need to clear the load test.
  • When you are sure that the battery is fully charged, plug the DMM to the battery terminals. It will show you reading between 12-13 volts. Make sure that the engine is off.
  • Now turn the engine on and again check the reading on DMM. It will show the reading between 13.5-14.5 volts.
  • Discard the negative battery cable from terminal.
  • Next, discard the wiring connections (power and ground) on the alternator. Mark the position of each wire so that you can connect them accurately.
  • Unfasten the alternator bracket bolts along with alternator adjusting bolts. This will help you getting rid of the alternator drive belt.
  • Unfasten the alternator mounting bolts along with spacer, adjusting bolt and lower pivot bolt with ratchet or socket wrench. Take the alternator out.
  • Now place the new alternator in its respective place and hand tighten the mounting bolts, spacer, adjusting bolt and lower pivot bolt.
  • Slide the alternator belt onto the alternator and adjust it properly.
  • When the alternator belt is tight enough, fasten the mounting bolts.
  • Reconnect the power and ground wires along with other wiring connectors.
  • Check the tension in the belt by pressing the belt down in the middle. If it is loose, adjust the alternator belt tension.
  • Reattach the negative battery cable back onto the negative terminal.
  • Switch the vehicle on and retest the battery voltage with the help of DMM.
  • After verification of voltage, switch the engine off and check the alternator belt tension again.
Posted in Starting, Charging & Electrical | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

How to Replace a Starter

Posted on February 22, 2011 by Alvin Martin

Below guide will teach you How to Replace a Starter . Please follow the instructions carefully.

Things You’ll Need:

  • Combination Wrench Set
  • Socket Extension Set
  • Socket and Ratchet Set
  • 3/8 in. Drive Ratchet
  • 3/8 in. Drive Torque Wrench
  • Starter

Estimated Costs:

  • DIY Costs: Est. $323.63 parts only
  • Shop Costs: Est. $530.88 parts and labor

Instructions:

  • Prop the engine hood up and look for the starter. Starter is usually connected to the transmission bell housing. In few cases you need to raise the vehicle to examine the starter.
  • Make sure that the vehicle is parked on a flat surface. Using the jack, raise the front of the vehicle. Chock the rear wheels.
  • Discard the negative battery cable from the terminal and cover the cable with a cloth or a towel.
  • Disconnect the electrical connectors from the starter. Mark the wires so that you can reconnect them at right place later.
  • Take the starter out by removing the bolts.
  • Match the new starter with the defective one and make certain that the new starter is exactly of the same type and size.
  • After removing the starter, examine the flywheel teeth. You need to have a flashlight to have a better idea about the flywheel teeth through the bell housing.
  • If the flywheel teeth are damaged then replace the flywheel teeth with new unit.
  • Position the new starter into the bell housing and secure it with bolts.
  • Reapply the electrical connections to the new starter and put the negative battery cable back onto the negative terminal.
  • Turn the engine on and see if new starter is operating properly or not.
Posted in Starting, Charging & Electrical | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

How to Replace Battery Cables

Posted on February 22, 2011 by Alvin Martin

Below guide will teach you How to Replace Battery Cables . Please follow the instructions carefully.

Things You’ll Need:

  • Combination Wrench Set
  • Battery Brush
  • Battery Cable

Estimated Costs:

  • DIY Costs: Est. $112.82 parts only
  • Shop Costs: Est. $243.94 parts and labor

Instructions:

  • Prop the engine hood up and look for the battery.
  • Unfasten the nut holding the negative battery cable to the terminal and discard the cable from the battery post.
  • Next, unfasten the nut holding the positive battery cable to the terminal and discard it as well.
  • It is suggested to jot down the route of the cables for installation reference. Detach the negative battery cable from the engine block and the positive battery cable from the starter solenoid.
  • Make sure that the new cables are of exact size of the old cables. Now, connect the new positive cable to the starter solenoid first and then the negative cable to the engine block.
  • Using wire brush, wipe off the dust or corrosive substance from the battery terminals or posts.
  • Next connect the positive battery cable to the positive battery terminal and secure it with nut. Better to use anticorrosive compound on the terminal to prevent corrosion.
  • Now install the negative battery cable to the negative battery terminal or post.
  • Turn the engine on and make sure that the vehicle starts smoothly.
Posted in Starting, Charging & Electrical | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

How to Replace a Battery

Posted on February 22, 2011 by Alvin Martin

Below guide will teach you How to Replace a Battery . Please follow the instructions carefully.

Things You’ll Need:

  • Combination Wrench Set
  • Battery Load Tester
  • Multimeter
  • Socket and Ratchet Set
  • Battery Brush
  • Battery

Estimated Costs:

  • DIY Costs: Est. $248.72 parts only
  • Shop Costs: Est. $356.73 parts and labor

Instructions:

  • Prop the engine hood up.
  • Using digital multimeter (DMM), test the voltage in the battery. Make sure that the battery has a voltage of 12 volts. If the reading shows less than 12 volts, charge the battery.
  • Once the battery is charged, you are ready to carry out a load test. This test will help you know that the battery is defective or not.
  • Discard the negative battery cable from the terminal. Cover the end of the cable with a cloth or a towel.
  • Now, discard the positive battery cable from the terminal.
  • Take the battery out of the battery tray by removing the battery hold down or clamp. Also, mark the position of the terminal.
  • Wipe off any debris or corrosive substance from the battery tray properly. Also wash the hold down.
  • Position the new battery in the battery so that the terminals are in right direction. Secure the battery with hold-down or clamp.
  • Thoroughly wipe off the cable connectors and battery posts with the help of a wire brush.
  • Now, connect the positive battery cable to the positive terminal or post of the battery.
  • Then connect the negative battery cable to the negative terminal of the battery.
  • Turn the engine on and again test the reading of the voltage with DMM. It must be somewhere around 13.5-14.5 volts.
Posted in Starting, Charging & Electrical | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

How to Replace Vacuum Hoses

Posted on February 22, 2011 by Alvin Martin

Below guide will teach you How to Replace Vacuum Hoses . Please follow the instructions carefully.

Things You’ll Need:

  • Pliers
  • Screwdriver
  • Vacuum Hose

Estimated Costs:

  • DIY Costs: Est. $34.01 parts only
  • Shop Costs: Est. $110.89 parts and labor

Instructions:

  • Prop the engine hood up.
  • Look for the vacuum hoses in the engine compartment.
  • Examine all the vacuum hoses for any signs or crack, or any other damage.
  • Turn the engine on and observe the engine idle noise while spraying carburetor cleaner on the vacuum hoses. Locate the leaked vacuum hose and turn the engine off.
  • Grab and draw the damaged vacuum hose out carefully. These hoses are usually connected with plastic or metal connectors. So, drag them out carefully as not to damage the plastic connectors.
  • Insert the new vacuum hose into the connector carefully.
  • Turn the engine on again and recheck by repeating the spray test.
Posted in Emission Control | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

How to Replace an Oxygen Sensor

Posted on February 22, 2011 by Alvin Martin

Below guide will teach you How to Replace an Oxygen Sensor . Please follow the instructions carefully.

Things You’ll Need:

  • Crimp Tool
  • Scan Tool
  • Combination Wrench Set
  • Oxygen Sensor Socket
  • Socket and Ratchet Set
  • Oxygen Sensor Thread Chaser
  • Wire Cutter
  • Oxygen Sensor

Estimated Costs:

  • DIY Costs: Est. $65.17 parts only
  • Shop Costs: Est. $195.48 parts and labor

Instructions:

  • Secure the vehicle on a flat surface with parking brake on.
  • Prop the engine hood up. Make sure that the engine is cold enough because working with hot engine may cause your skin or hand to burn.
  • Look for the oxygen sensor fitted in the exhaust manifold or pipe. If you feel difficulty in reaching at the oxygen sensor from top, you can raise the front of the vehicle with floor jack to access the valve from underneath.
  • Discard the wiring connector to the oxygen sensor and take it out of the exhaust system.
  • Three different types of sensors require different installation technique:
  • In case of universal oxygen sensor, discard the wiring connectors from the defective sensor and join it to the new oxygen sensor.
  • In case of threaded oxygen sensor, coat the threads with anti-seize compound before installing.
  • In case of flange oxygen sensor, use a new gasket and secure the sensor with bolts.
  • Once the oxygen sensor is installed, reapply the wiring connector to the new sensor.
  • Clear the diagnostic trouble code, using the delete or erase command on the OBD Scanner tool.
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How to Replace an Idle Control Valve

Posted on February 22, 2011 by Alvin Martin

Below guide will teach you How to Replace an Idle Control Valve . Please follow the instructions carefully.

Things You’ll Need:

  • Scan Tool
  • Idle Control Valve

Estimated Costs:

  • DIY Costs: Est. $311.47 parts only
  • Shop Costs: Est. $525.63 parts and labor

Instructions:

  • Take help from the owner’s manual and locate the position of the ODB-I or ODB-II data link connector.
  • Shift the ignition key to ON position but remember you need not to start the engine.
  • Connect the OBD Scanner tool to the data link connector. Switch the scanner tool on so that you retrieve the diagnostic trouble code.
  • If the resistance is not in proportion to the vehicle’s specifications, you need to examine the throttle position sensor and its components.
  • Find the idle control valve. Remove any wiring connectors from the valve.
  • Unfasten the screws or bolts holding the valve in place and take it out.
  • Replace the old gasket with new one and position the new idle control valve on the mounting surface carefully and secure it with screws or bolts.
  • Using the delete or erase command on the OBD Scanner tool, clear the diagnostic trouble code.
  • Switch the vehicle on and verify the repair work.
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